Saturday, 28 February 2009

Day 11 - Scenic coast

Today turned out surprisingly bright and sunny. From the beach just outside the Motel we'd ended up in we could see back down south over the bay of the Tasman Sea to a clear Mnt Cook, Tasman etc. A day out: we'd have got a great reflection at Lake Matheson that morning! Still, the weather meant we'd have a nice run up towards Nelson.

A 1/2hr north of Greymouth are the Pancake Rocks - a limestone/mudstone formation of cliffs which look like stacks of pancakes. They also have blowholes and surge pools. We were there for high tide, but the sea being calm, didn't make for particularly dramatic surges. There were still some impressive booms and waves there though.

A little way beyond the Putakari river runs through a limestone gorge. A walkway runs up it through the rainforest. This gave us another interesting and pleasant walk - this time in the sun. Bird life and plants set deep within the gorge the interest for us here, including a flowering Palm with bees in attendence.

The rest of the day was taken up with a scenic drive along the coast, stopping off to view a Seal Colony at Foulwind Cape (aduls lazing, pups playing), and then through Bullers Gorge (think Wye valley only much bigger in all directions!). We didn't quite get to Nelson, staying at a Backpackers (Hu Ha Bikepackers) at a small farm with a big docile pig of unknown heritage. A nice friendly place where we met Sam, the owner, and a couple of cyclists working their way down the south island. One of these cyclists turned out to be an ex-paraglider pilot who had often run retrieves in Canada. Apparently the paragliding scene in British Columbia is being actively developed and XCs of over 100k are far from rare. Another trip in the offing...

Evening topped off with pasta and a bottle of Pinot Gris from Witiri. Nelson awaits.

Thursday, 26 February 2009

Day 10 - Normal service to be resumed

Saw a lot of water today - some of it frozen! Forecast was for the wet weather to return later in the day so we started off early with a walk up to the Fox Glacier terminal. This was a leisurely walk up over the river bed to the ice. There was a marked end at a viewpoint but it was straightforward to get up close to the ice. Lots of giant ice cubes in the river here!

We went for brunch at Lake Matheson cafe before a walk around the lake. One is meant to get a great view here of Mount Cook reflected - not today! Still, we got the idea, before heading off to Franz Josef Glacier. Again an easy walk up to the viewpoint. The Glacier here is more dramatic. (For those that like facts and figures, this is one of the fastest moving glaciers at over 1m per day, sometimes 5m per day, and is currently advancing as melt is slower than accumulation! It is still very short of its 1752 end point though.) We carried on up the path used by the Glacier Guides (feeling we were not an inexperienced party). This took us up a stream through the undergrowth with some fixed ropes. All good fun in the, now, pouring rain. We couldn't get as close as we had at Fox glacier due to not wanting to wade through melt water (at any depth!). Still, a good walk before heading north to find some accommodation overnight at Greymouth, and below average curry. :o(

Wednesday, 25 February 2009

Day 9 - Doing the Trebble

Last night we got a great view of the milky way - the stars were simply brilliant! The next morning it was back to a blanket of cloud however. So it was a leisurely start to the day -breakfast, laundary and booking accommodation at Fox's Glacier. Then it was off to Trebble Cone Ski area to see if any flying was in the offing...

Once again the skies were clearing out. A short trip took us to the entrance to the Trebble Cone ski area where we met a local pilot waiting on a lift to the top. He let us know that Richard from Wanaka Paragliding would be along at around 1pm and offerred lifts up to pilots for a small consideration. So, watching a few french pilots already flying up to cloud base (a few hundred ft above launch - not that high!) and around the waterfalls, we waited, took photos and Carolyn did a Suduko.

Richard arrived, and we loaded up our gliders on his van roof. A couple of other pilots had also arrived for the lift up as well. We were soon at launch which was a little way down from the Ski centre at a point called Pub Corner. Yet another stunning site to fly. 4-5kms of mountain fronting the valley to the north and good XC potential along and in out in the valley (just beware the helicopter operation immediately - well - below launch!)

We let the tandems off and got familiar with launch (fly off both sides of the little spine...) then forward launched off to play with small thermals wisping up the mountain side. A little bumpy near cloudbase but really it was good flying (if not quite as easy as yesterday). I flew along to the west end to get a better view of a glacier coming off the high mountain at the end (Rob Roy Glacier) then tried to go to the east end. Carolyn was low struggling to get back up and had to land. I flew above, flying over a couple of impressive water falls. Despite working a good thermal here it wasn't to be. Sink followed by weakening climbs put me down and I landed out at the LZ next to vans with everyone else. Apparently days at Trebble Cone are often like this - weakening as the day progresses and the mountain side gets less sun (and no headed valley wind for the evening).

A good afternoon's flying - but we needed to get on. A long drive up route 6 to Fox Glacier awaited us. We did make a few stops to take in views on the way though. Lake Hawea is spectacular reflecting the mountins that surround it, and then through the Haast Pass there are lots of waterfalls (which have a lot of water just now!). The road comes out to the Tasman Sea coast at Haast; the landscape has changed to knarled coastal vegetation, cleared wet plains, and temperate rain forest as progress to Fox Glacier.

Tuesday, 24 February 2009

Day 8 - At last!

A morning without the rain falling. In fact there was blue sky appearing, so rather than head straight off to the west coast as intended, we decided to see what was happening at Coronet Peak, and head into Queenstown to book some accommodation somewhere north for the night. It took us a little time to check out from the New Orleans as the duty manager hadn't turned up, but it gave us some time to do a little souvenir shopping.

The Coronet Peak flight park cafe was open so we stopped off to make inquiries about the etiquette there, and to get a forecast. Weather was to steadily get better through the day. So change in plans - accommodation to be in Wanaka, drive down to Kingston to watch Hugh, Ellis, Ron, Nick and Becky do their maneovers over the lake before flying Coronet Peak pm.

Kingston was sunnier than yesterday, but still a bit of a breeze and tops were in cloud. We watched a couple of local pilots appear from the cloud out over the lake. The first practised a SAT, some wingovers and landed out on the beach. The second just got into a bit of a mess trying to do something, settled out, then landed in the water for no apparent reason (from our view)! The SIV course packed in - it had taken 3 hours to get to launch up a muddy track, launching required an observer on a pinnacle above launch (which faced the wrong direction) to see pilot and ridge clear of cloud to signal pilot to launch, and then direct them in right direction to get to the lake! Discretion... Carolyn got sunburt feet on the beach - we headed to Coronet Peak.

We got to launch to find gentle cycles wafting up and tandem pilots wafting down. Looked like we have a nice floaty top to bottom flight. Appently easy to hitch up to launch so we decided to fly rather than take turns with a van retrieve. We let the tandems (hang glider and paraglider) clear first, then I took off, Carolyn a little later. The flight along the ridge is a little over 2km and the view is simply stunning (I'll post pictures later). About half way along I found some thermals to play in breaking at an open gully. It started to take me over the back into somewhere where I didn't think I wanted to be so left it. (A local carried on and climbed 500' more - should have stuck with it!) There was plenty more bits of lift to play in, then over the landing field a wooded ridge caught the now rather bouyant valley wind. Easy soaring and lots of fat light evening thermals made flying easy and the still clearing skies just kept making it better.

I got a bit low to climb back out so landed in a bautifully kept landing field to join lots of other pilots. Carolyn kept high and flew on for another 1/2hr or so (choosing to land after getting a bit cold). I grabbed the opportunity to catch a lift back up the road with Jim Rooney, then back up to launch with a Japanese (I think) hang glider pilot. I quickly took off again to find air now quite bouyant in front of launch - so an easy glide to the ridge above the landing field. Carolyn had landed by the time I got back there, but Ellis, Hugh and the others had now arrived and were flying. Together we all had a blast soaring up to 300' above the ridge at times. One of the SIV course pilots landed on the ridge and instructed Ellis et al in collapses etc out in front - great fun to watch as they did some manoevers, then climbed on thermals and ridge lift right back up to do it all over again. Amazingly there were few local pilots enjoying this evening convection - at one stage I flew out and started coming into land when I chance on a nice thermal which was too good not to wind right back up to the ridge top. But eventually the lift started to decay and one by one we headed out to the valley and came into land - and rave about the flying we'd all just enjoyed.

After catching back up with Carolyn who had gone off to retrieve the van we'd left at launch (took a bit of time to get hitches due to lateness of day but a couple of hippies who were obviously very much in love with one another obliged apparently...) we headed into Arrowtown for a nice meal to finish off the day. Carolyn and I then bade our farewells to the others. They had their course to complete and we needed to head north.

A great day - we really have to come back to fly this area again.

Monday, 23 February 2009

Day 7 - Thought weather was getting better...

But no, raining again! Apparently this weather system has come from New South Wales (!) where it has caused big floods. I can believe it.

Yesterday on way back from Glen Orchy we stopped off at Coronet Peak Skiing area where there is a paragliding take-off. It looked good, a couple thousand foot above a wide flat valley floor. The cloud had lifted and we had good hopes of flying it. Only problem then was the wind blowing down the hill. Valley was full of cloud as we traveled through it today. Might have been a chance for flying at Kingston (south end of lake here) later in the day, so we did some walking around Queenstown in the morning and then headed to Kingston for the afternoon.

The weather did seem to clear there, but we could find no launch, the others didn't turn up, and besides the valley wind, being strong, would have kyboshed it all anyway. We did go for a walk up to a good view point over the village and watched the onbly thing of note here: The Kingston Flyer is a steam train that runs a couple of times a day. We didn't take the trip, but we did find out that the NZ Paragliding Acro event takes place here - in two weeks time! Apparently they tow up or get taken up intop the mountains, to launch, by helicopter. Mmmm.

Back to Queenstown for some fresh fish. Think we'll be giving up hope of flying and heading back north tomorrow...

Day 6 - getting stir crazy

More rain. Forecast was to get better so we headed out to Glen Orchy for some walks and hopefully some views. (Some of the Lord of Rings scenes shot in this area.) We stayed low - well there was no pint in climbing up as it would have been straight into rain cloud! We walked around the village of Glen Orchy which afforded us some close up viewing of lagoons and birdlife - lots of black swans. The lichen/airplants were quite impressive too - the air must be very clear here!

We met up with Hugh, Ron and Ellis for a drink at a cafe. They had just got here having checked out the Coronet Peak paragliding site - though Ellis missed it having been asleep trying to knock off a cold she has been suffering the last couple of days. They were looking into horse riding that afternoon. We decided to go fo another walk in the valley. Mistake. It was uninspiring though the creek it travelled by was pleasant enough to look at; the walk just had no variety, being through fields of long vegetation while the rain continued. We got very wet. Back to Arrowtown for a beer and a burger (very good - lamb).

Day 5 - Still raining...

So its rather ironic that Arrowtown had no running water last night!

It seemed like a good day to do the (now obligatory) local alcoholic tasting visits - in this case a wine tasting tour. We found one that would pick us up and drop us back off in Arrowtown, visiting four vineyard "cellar doors" for the tastings. A stop a the second gave opportunity for lunch as well. But before the off, we had the morning to while away, which we did around the surprisingly good Arrowtown museum. This gave a quite comprehensive history of the area from the Gold rush, through to its time as a holiday resort of "cribs" (think beach huts in the mountains!). Displays included parts of the some of the original buildings.

Museumed out, the arrival of the bus for the wine tour was welcome. Straight into the tastings then at Amisfield. A fine purpose built building for the tourist trade would have a fantastic view over Lake Hayes in normal circumstances. We were welcomed with a glass of bubbly before being given the speil for a Suvignon Blanc, Pinot based Rose, and a Pinot Noir. All good light wines, but the Sparkling was best for us. Straight on then to Gibbston - the most commercial of the lot and lunch. We shared a cheese platter - nice but not outstanding local cheeses, and a pleasant glass of Chardonnay.

The Cave where we had the tasting at Gibbston was impressive. Best of the bunch here was the Riesling. The Pinot Gris was rather too light and the Pinot 2007 was rather rough (while our host raved about the award winning 2006 - which we were not offered! :-( ). On, then, to Pereguine. This vineyard was most notable for the open air stage being set for a wedding with a great mountain backdrop - what a shame about the weather. We supposed that at least the couple would have a talking point for years to come. Our tastings were in a room beneath the grand stage (it's also the barrel storage area). Four tastings here: A Pinot Gris, their "Saddleback" Pinot noir (light), Perguine 2007 Pinot Noir (ok - may improve with aging) and their top-of-range Karera Pinot Noir (2008, $65 a bottle) which was soft and light.

Best left to last. Waitiri Creek tasting looked to be held in a chapel. Six tastings here! A Reisling reministant of a Bourgogne, a creamy fruity Pinot Gris, and a delicate Pinot Noir rose which we thought would make a nice apperetif (ok, we might have been getting a touch squiffy by this point). Next the reds! First their lighter "Drumner" Pinot Noir - indeed light with strawberry and raspberry flavours. Their main Pinot Noir 2008 was full bodied, fruity with spice. We finished up with a sample of the same from 2006 vintage (a very good year apparently). This was very good indeed - well rounded, blackcurrent, plum and spice flavours.

We bought a 3pack of the white/rose wines for the road, and took details of the merchants Waitiri use to export to the UK - think we'll be getting a case of the 2006 Pinot Noir...

Sunday, 22 February 2009

Day 4. Raining...

It is Scotland! Ok a day of not much: Coffee, then travel down to Queenstown (actually Arrowtown - just outside). We went via the Cardrona pass. Very dramatic - even in the fog and the rain - the drop down into the Ortago valley has lots of alpine switchbacks.

We decided to stay in Arrowtown as its quieter than Queenstown and close to Coronet Peak (Paragliding site out of ski season). We had trouble finding somewhere to stay there though as several weddings were on in the area that weekend. The backpackers lodge was full but we managed to get rooms at the New Orleans Hotel right in the middle of Arrowtown.

Arrowtown is an ex-Goldrush settlement from 1860s - it has a real feel of old-west about it. We went for a wander up tracks at the back of the village, stopping by the remnants of the Chinese encampment remains. Many chinese came over in the goldrush to try making a fortune before returning (only a few settled). We got a bit of a view of the town nestled in the shelter of the mountains, but with the rain and mist we felt it was time to go and try out the local brews.

The Arrow brewery site has seen brewing since the town was established - and the beer is pretty good today. As was the venison pie we had to go with it. Hope weather improves...

Thursday, 19 February 2009

Day 3 - On the road

Another dull drizzly day - a fine time to head south to Wanaka via a scenic route - not that we expected to see much of the mountains. Again we were to be surprised. Several hours later, the skies cleared as we reached the big mountains. Lots of great looking wave-bar in the sky, views across lakes, and having joked all day that we wouldn't see anything of Mnt Cook, a great view of it.

It was indeed a scenic drive including a narrow gorge through Lindis Pass. We rolled up in Wanaka later than hoped to find a paragling pilot ground-handling in the park down by the water front. Next few days don't look so good weather wise apparently... Still Wanak looks pretty - like west coast of Scotland, only with bigger mountains. Hope we get to fly here.

Finding accommodation was a touch tricky (popular here) - but managed to get motel room for the night. Thai food and sleep the final order of the day.

Day 2: Now we're on holiday!

After sleeping like logs, day2 didn't look so good. Low cloud, drizzle etc. But after a good breakfast we hooked up with Dave, all piled into two vehicles and headed inland to the dividing range. We were heading for a Skiing site called Mt Cheeseman which might afford some good flying. The weather system stable, so not expecting anything epic, but...

An hour or so later we ascended into the mountains and cloud, and then miraculously it all cleared to blue skies (cloud filled valleys around us). Great scenery (look up Castle Hill somewhere). We left one camper van at the LZ and took the 4x4 up the gravel track to the Ski base about 700m further up. Here we set up for forward launches as cycles were light. Dave gave us a quick site briefing and then we all went off like the proverbial lemmings. Carolyn went first and we watched as she headed out and found a goodish thermal and started winding it up (not that high - base was barely above us). We all had a good play in the thermals, trying to head out into the valley, though we steadily got lower and lower. I spent a while playing in bubbles of lift abover the LZ but was soon down to land at the van. A nice 1/2 hr of lee-side bubble flying!

We spent a while getting everyone together - Carolyn had gone the furthest having picked another junction and van to land next to (oops!) - but we were soon all back up for another flight down. Now we set a mini-task to see who could get the furthest down the track out into the valley - not easy as into a valley wind and with a decaying day. We all pretty much made the same LZ. Carolyn agian made a small hill in front of the LZ and even climbed a bit before landing with the rest of us - a couple of us had got sunk out trying to make the same hill. In fact I'd been drilled down in a 20km head wind for a 10min top to bottom. But still, a great place to fly, and a good day's flying, especially given how the weather had looked. Finished off heading back to Sumner, pizza and beer & wine.

Wednesday, 18 February 2009

Blue skies in Christchurch - day 1

31 hours of air travel later, we got to Christchurch! Lovely clear blue skies, 20deg+. Ellis met us at the airport, which was great, and got us down town so we could pick up our van. The vans we are using are cool - modern day VW campler vans (made by Toyota and others - go figure as they say...) with great paint-jobs. I'll post some pictures later.

Well it took a bit of time to get the van sorted, so we chilled out in square at Christchurch Catherdral, got ourselves a coffee and a bite to eat, before heading to Sumner. We've got a room in a bunkhouse here for a couple of days. Its down on the coast, quite pleasant and handy for the flying sites here. Speaking of which... we went out to find the others who had already flown two other sites that day and were now up around "Taylors Mistake". We found them, although we had to trek a bit as we'd taken the wrong road. The sea breeze was calmer than expected so folk were not soaring that well - more scratching. However, we met up with Ron, Hugh, Becky and Nick. We also met Dave from ParaPro who sorted out our paperwork to fly in NZ.

Ellis had got here new wing and was keen to try it out - a nice crispy Airwave Sport4. I helped her get set up and away before flying myself. The Sport 4 looks good in the air and judging from the whoops from Ellis, she likes it. A small cove site, the flight was a 5 minute top to bottom for me as wind no longer enough to scratch. But can't be bad, getting a flight in the day we arrive!

We then headed out to a higher site, Allandale, where Ellis and Ron took a flight down as the sun set. The rest of us decided against it (plus we had to pick Hugh out of the gorse after an aborted launch). Following van trip down to pick Ellis and Ron up, it was gone 9, dark, and we were in need of food (and a bed). Fortune was kind, and we found a bar nearby which was just still doing food - and fine food it was too (fresh Grouper) at the Governer's Bay hotel.

Friday, 13 February 2009

Demise of a Neo-Luddite?

So, just before heading out on a 3-week trip to New Zealand, hopefully to get some paragliding in, I've been convinced, finally, to try blogging. We'll see. If all goes to plan then we'll post reports of how the flying (and other activities) turns out. After the NZ trip, we'll hopefully have a better year in the UK than 2008, a successful time in the BPCup, and another fine trip to Piedrahita.

Nigel